A Scenic Drive Through Fukuchiyama: Exploring Kyoto’s Oni Legends and Local Cuisine

Your first stop is Oeyamaonigawara Park, located in front of Oe Station (Kyoto Tango Railway) in Oe Town. The park’s gallery roof is adorned with 72 oni tiles, each created by tile artisans from across Japan. The powerful display of these tiles is a must-see. Oni tiles are often featured on the roofs of castles and temples, serving both decorative and protective purposes, as they are believed to ward off evil spirits.

Shinji Seikaho, a long-established shop with about 70 years of history, is famous for its signature Oni Manju. These large buns measure about 10 cm in diameter and weigh 480g—ten times the size of a typical manju. Inspired by the "Koshikake Iwa" (Seat Rock) from the Shōnen Dōji legend, the Oni Manju is filled with sweet red bean paste inside a thin skin. Made using traditional methods passed down over the years, this Oni Manju is also delicious when dissolved in hot water and enjoyed as a zenzai-style treat.

We visited Shokudo Oeyama, known for its "Oni Soba." This is the Oni Soba Set Meal. The soba is served in a large, 30 cm wide red bowl, filled with jet-black soba noodles! The striking red and black contrast brings to mind the image of an oni. On top of the hearty soba are crisp mountain vegetables. You lift the large bowl with both hands and sip the clear, gentle broth, savoring its delicate flavor.

When you visit Oeyama, don’t miss the chance to try the local specialty, doburoku (unrefined sake). This rustic, homemade sake is considered the precursor to the clear sake we know today. One standout doburoku from the Maehara area is called Onibaba. Crafted by Noriko Sato, who runs the beloved local restaurant Kappo Sato with her husband, it has won first place at the National Doburoku Contest three times.

*Remember to drink responsibly and avoid driving after drinking!

The Japan Oni Cultural Museum is appropriately located at the foot of the Oeyama mountain range, home to the most notorious "oni" (demon or ogre) in Japan, Shuten Doji. The museum explains local folklore and has displays of both national and international oni masks and artifacts. There is a large collection of onigawara, or oni-shaped roof tiles, which were used on buildings throughout history. The surrounding area has parks, places for families to explore on foot, including small waterfalls, rivers, hiking paths, and of course, friendly oni all over the place!

The last must-see attraction is the Oni Monument, a striking sculpture by Teru Narita, the artist behind the design of Ultraman. Standing on a 5-meter pedestal, the monument features 3-meter-tall bronze statues of Shōnen Dōji, Ibuki Dōji, and Hoshikuma Dōji. From atop the mountain, the statues exude an incredible sense of presence. The fierce expression of Shōnen Dōji, pointing directly at the city of Kyoto, is an unforgettable sight.

Chabu Dining is a farmhouse guest house run by an owner and his wife who moved to Ayabe from Tokyo. Surrounded by nature, guests can enjoy the beauty of the fields and rice paddies managed by their hosts. The rice cooked in earthenware pots, and miso soup full of vegetables are simple but delicious foods, focusing on farm-to-fork local production for local consumption.