Kyoto Otokuni Bamboo Grove

Enjoy the Nagaokakyo streets to Komyoji Temple that only the locals know

Time required : 1 day

  • Japanese Culture
  • Outdoor
Enjoy the Nagaokakyo streets to Komyoji Temple that only the locals know

Only a ten-minute ride from JR Kyoto Station will find you at Nagaokakyo City and at the beginning of a lovely half-day stroll in a largely unexplored part of Kyoto’s southwest, with the final destination being the beautiful Komyoji Temple. You may also notice that the places listed are mainly food; feel free to skip anything if you’ve met your calorie quota. This walk comes with a bonus; we can guarantee that you will be the only traveler on this path enjoying the ever-changing scenery. If you happen across another, chances are they’ve also found this article, and you should say hello to each other.

The walk is about an hour nonstop. If you decide to detour or relax and enjoy yourself at the final destination—Komyoji Temple with its astounding grounds and sights—you could easily spend three hours in total. There are buses that will bring you back to either Hankyu Nagaoka Tenjin Station or JR Nagaokakyo Station which will get you swiftly back to central Kyoto.

West gate of JR Nagaokakyo Station

1Yawami

Right out of the west gate at JR Nagaokakyo Station, you’ll find yourself in front of the Japanese confectionary shop, Yawami. It would probably help to note that Japanese confectionary is known as wagashi, and a word that will pop up again here later. Yawami specializes in warabimochi, a soft gelatin-like sweet similar to the Japanese mochi (pounded rice cakes), but less gummy. They’re served covered in a sweet soybean powder called kinako. Our recommendation is the Yawamo drink, which has chunks of the warabimochi inside it. They come in three flavors: black tea, kokuto (black sugar that has a treacle flavor), and hojicha (roasted green tea). If you grab one as a companion to take with you, please note that bins are not common in Japan, so we advise you bring a small plastic bag to keep your trash and dispose of it later.

Access
[Access to the next spot]

A short walk to our second destination, through the narrow backstreets and away from the cars and congestion of the main roads near the station. There are all kinds of houses new and old, and the roads give the feel that you’re navigating a maze. If you’re travelling around lunch, the next destination might just be the place for you to charge up for the walk ahead.
Hours of Operation
11:00-19:00 Fri., Sat. & Sun.

2Sushi-ichi

Sushi-ichi’s charm lies in its regularity. It’s not a chain store; just a little place that has been running for over 20 years with delicious looking lunches. Part the noren curtains at the entrance and you’re somewhere no other tourists are. On the menu are a tempura and shrimp cream croquette sets, but being a sushi restaurant, we think you should go for their nigiri (hand-pressed sushi) set. From 1000 yen with nothing over 3000 yen, it’s reasonable.

Access
[Access to the next spot]

Continue exploring the back streets of this built-up area between the JR and Hankyu stations, and its common sights of vending machines, apartment buildings and coin parking lots. You’ll eventually find yourself at the back of the very retro Long Hill building, which stands in stark contrast to its surroundings.
Hours of Operation
11:30-14:00 for lunch (last orders by 13:45), closed on Thur.

3Chococinna (choco & cinnamon)

One of the quaint shops in the Long Hill building is Chococinna, a baker confectioner. On offer you’ll find donuts, scones, cookies and other baked goodies, but what makes this place special is that they’re all made not with flour, but with rice flour. And yes, that means it’s all gluten free. Did we mention it's vegan, too? You can take something home for later, but there’s also a space to eat in and have a drink as well.

Access
[Access to the next spot]

From here you’ll want to walk towards the railway crossing in front of Hankyu Nagaoka Tenjin Station. Once you’ve crossed, make a sharp right away from the congested streets near the station and back on to the quiet residential roads. Our next destination is a local park with another local wagashi shop close by.
Hours of Operation
9:30-18:30 Wed.-Sat.

4Kikuharu

The West of Kyoto is known for its bamboo, so Kikuharu’s most well-known sweet is the bamboo shoot shaped takenoko monaka. The item we think you should really get though is their fruits daifuku. Daifuku are small round mochi (soft rice cakes) stuffed with sweet bean jam and seasonal fruit, making for a delicious blend of tradition and seasonal freshness. In Japan, wagashi shops don’t generally double as cafés, so if you’d like to sit down straight away and enjoy your snack, why not do it on a bench at the park nearby? If not, you can always take it home.

Access
[Access to the next spot]

The next part of the route is the longest in distance. Head north along Seven Shotengai (shotengai translates as shopping arcade in English, but is more like a group of shops in Japan). This little strong independent community of businesses includes 74 shops loved by locals, and takes its name from the seven shape they make when viewed on a map. After a while you will turn left and head towards the mountains until you hit a busy road, then follow that north. After a while you will find a FamilyMart convenience store on your left. Follow the road that branches away from the main road, with fields on the right.
Hours of Operation
9:00-18:00, closed on Thur.

5Lunch Alternative: Tumiki ~natural café~

If you’d prefer a different option for lunch, a short walk off course will take you to Tumiki, a relatively new restaurant built with natural materials. Though small it seats a surprising amount of people, and the owners keep it neat and tidy. You’ll only find locals dining in its calm atmosphere. No eggs, milk, or flour are used in the food offered up.

Hours of Operation
9:30-15:00 (last orders by 14:30) for weekdays, 11:00-16:00 (last orders by 15:30) for weekends and national holidays, closed on Mon.

6An unattended vegetable shop

The reason we are introducing this next spot is because, in our experience, travelers to Japan find them interesting. Literally as the title says, you’ll find produce ready to go, prices marked, all organized neatly inside this little unattended shop on the side of the road. These trust-payment systems are common in Japan, and a sign of the strength of community bonds. There’s a coin box in the center where you can drop your money.

Access
[Access to the next spot]

You’ll have noticed the change in scenery; the fields stretching out to your right and the western mountains looming ahead. Further along this road you’ll hit another slightly busy road, the Tanba Highway, where people used to come and go to visit the shrines and temples dotted around. You’re high enough up now to see over the housetops to Kyoto’s eastern mountain range. Take a right here, and a short walk will bring you to another vegetable shop, and our final destination.

7Komyoji Temple

Komyoji is the head temple of the Seizan Jodo school of Buddhism. The vast temple complex at the base of the Nishiyama mountains has a strong historical connection with Honen (1133–1212), the founder of the Jodo (Pure Land) school. Komyoji is also a popular place to view maple foliage. Highlights include the stone stairway leading to the Miedo Hall and the 200-meter “maple path” to the left from the main gate. The tunnel of leaves formed by some 250 trees is bright green from spring through summer and turns fiery red and orange in autumn.

Hours of Operation
Miedo 9:00-16:00 (the temple’s main gate closes at 18:00)

8Additional Stop: Folkcraft Yu

Just in front of Komyoji Temple is Folkcraft Yu, who specializes in collecting and exhibiting quality Japanese antiques. Though it’s open only a couple of days a week, this tiny gallery’s collection differs depending on the month. It’s good to stick your nose inside for a peek if it's open.

Hours of Operation
Afternoons on Wed. & Sun.

10 minutes by bus

Hankyu Nagaoka Tenjin Station or JR Nagaokakyo Station

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