The Port City of Maizuru: From Spectacular Scenery to Pleasure Cruises and Navy Heritage

Maizuru is a port city in the northwestern part of Kyoto Prefecture situated on Maizuru Bay. An inlet of the Sea of Japan, the bay cuts deeply into the landmass giving it a lake-like feel, and is part of about 120 km of complex, deeply indented coastline that is some of the most magnificent scenery in the country. The name Maizuru—meaning “dancing crane”— fittingly describes the shape of the bay and land aid to resemble cranes with outstretched wings. The city is best accessed from Nishi-Maizuru station, which can be reached in approximately 90 minutes by express train from Kyoto station or about 45 minutes by local train (Kyoto Tango Railway) from Amanohashidate. The spectacular views along the coast make the train journey a real treat.

Once you’ve arrived in Maizuru, we recommend making your way to Goro Sky Tower. The tower is on the summit of the 301m-high Mt. Gorogatake which lies in the geographical center of the city, separating the eastern and western districts. Its observation deck provides incredible panoramic views of the bay and coastline that are nothing short of breathtaking. Indeed, the view from the tower is so impressive it was officially voted the best scenic view in the Kinki (Kansai) region.

From this elevation, one is struck by the unique geographical features of the bay, with its narrow mouth, coves seemingly carved into the mountains, and calm waters. You can see why the Japanese navy chose this natural fortress as the location to build a base in 1901.

After taking in the view, grab a bite to eat at the café on the first floor of the tower. Menu options include the famous local navy curry and a five-stack burger that is a culinary tribute to the tower.

The western district, Nishi-Maizuru, is the historical center of the city. It developed around Tanabe Castle built by Samurai lord Hosokawa Yusai in 1582 and flourished for some 290 years until the castle was deserted with the end of samurai reign in the latter half of the 19th century.

Sections of the walls and foundations are all that remain of the original structure, but the main gate and turret have been reconstructed and the grounds made into a park. It’s a lovely place to take a stroll and get a hint of its bygone days.

A number of significant conflicts and events played out at the castle during the three centuries it was in use. There’s a museum on the grounds where you can learn about some of them, in particular a siege and ensuing battle that took place in the year 1600 which are considered pivotal in Japanese history.

In addition, the museum has displays about successive lords of the castle, armor and swords worn by historical military commanders, and a diorama of the castle town. Most of the information is in Japanese, so consider bringing an interpreter with you.

Let’s now discover some of the highlights of Higashi-Maizuru, the eastern part of the city that first developed in the late 19th century. Seeking to boost naval defense capability to compete with Western powers, the government of the day chose Higashi-Maizuru as the location for its sole military port to be built on the Sea of Japan. The narrow entrance that made the bay difficult to penetrate and calm waters meant it was ideal for shipbuilding and anchoring warships.

With the opening of Maizuru Naval Base in 1901, the small fishing village of Higashi-Maizuru was quickly transformed into a modern city. In addition to various naval facilities along the coast, it acquired urban infrastructure such as arterial roads and railways. The most recognizable symbol of this era is the Western-style redbrick buildings that stand colorfully in the town to this day. These structures were a vivid symbol of modernization in a country where architecture traditionally relied almost exclusively on wood.

Maizuru Red Brick Park is Higashi-Maizuru’s main attraction. It’s home to twelve former naval warehouses built between 1900 and 1921, of which eight are designated Important Cultural Properties of Japan and five have been repurposed as commercial facilities open to the public.

One of the buildings, built in 1903, now houses the Red Brick Museum. Inside there are displays about the history of bricks from prehistoric times and how they were made, and a collection of bricks from around the world.

The other four buildings house a café, a gift shop, a craft beer brewery and an event hall, so there’s plenty for the visitor to enjoy. Look closely and you’ll see traces here and there of the railway tracks and giant cranes that carried military supplies. With the red bricks themselves having only grown in character over their hundred-plus years, there are plenty of great photo spots. The park hosts all sorts of fun events on weekends, so you might like to check out the schedule and plan your visit accordingly.

Visitors can take a pleasure cruise around Maizuru Bay that leaves from a small pier in Maizuru Red Brick Park. Upholding the naval legacy, the Maritime Self-Defense Force operates a base here, so in addition to historical spots like the old shipyards, you can expect to see lots of active self-defense vessels on the tour.

Cruises take approximately 35 minutes. The crew members are all former Maritime Self-Defense Force personnel and provide highly knowledgeable commentary. You’ll see giant escort vessels, minesweepers and various others depending on what is in port on the day.

The tour boat gets right up close to docked vessels so have your camera at the ready for some impressive angles. The personnel will wave to you if they’re on deck! There’s nothing more invigorating than the feel of the fresh sea air as the stunning panoramas glide by.

Tours depart from Maizuru Red Brick Park.
Tickets are available at Red Brick Museum in the park.
Please check the website for tour schedules and pricing.

There are more iconic red bricks elsewhere around Higashi-Maizuru. The most impressive example is a giant water purification plant built in 1901 in the mountains near Maizuru Bay to serve the new naval base. Although it’s usually closed to the public, you might be lucky enough to catch one of the occasional openings.

The enormous quantities of water required to supply the naval facilities and fleet were brought from a dam some 6km away and stored here before being distributed.

After entering the structure, visitors are led down into a maze-like underground space containing several 6-meter-high walls. These were designed to keep the water circulating and prevent stagnation.

Absent water, the vast chamber is profoundly silent, and it feels like being inside some kind of ancient monument. The overwhelming grandeur and scale give you a sense of the technological prowess of the navy at the time.

To experience the modern face of the town, head to Atick, a shopping, food and entertainment complex Atick that opened in September 2024 and boasts amazing panoramic views of Maizuru
Bay.

Those looking for some retail therapy can shop local clothing brand Solamonat, a curated range of apparel and other products with a Japanese theme at Beams Japan, and a range of Maizuru souvenirs. There’s also a café where you can enjoy premium coffee and food while watching the naval vessels and giant cruise ships coming and going across the bay. The café boasts a 360-degree sound system that pipes music from every angle so it’s a treat for the ears as well!

On the rooftop there’s a viewing platform and a Finnish-style barrel sauna. The beautiful ocean views and the cozy feel of wood are just the things to soothe body and soul.

Business hours of the Atick vary. Please check the website for details (Japanese language only).

You might be surprised to hear that the establishment of the naval base 120 years ago significantly influenced Japanese food culture. An original navy cookbook published at Maizuru in 1908 contains some 200 recipes from Japanese standards like sushi and tempura to Western-style dishes and sweets like omelets, roast beef and doughnuts. It reveals just how international, nutritious and gourmet the naval diet at the time was.

You can try some of the original navy dishes for yourself at Shoeikan restaurant in Highashi-Maizuru which is located in a former ryokan that was frequented by famous naval officers. The renovated building opened as a restaurant in 2018.

One of Shoeikan’s specialties is eight-spice curry rice. Introduced to Japan from India via England, curry became a staple on ships due to its high nutritional value and the health benefits of spices, and subsequently grew into a national dish of Japan. Don’t miss the chance to taste original style Japanese curry!

Nikujaga, a classic of Japanese home cooking, is another recipe thought to have been invented by the navy in Maizuru and is one of Shoeikan’s specialties. The dish, consisting of beef and potatoes simmered in soy sauce and sugar, is said to be the result of a Japanese chef attempting to recreate the beef stew an officer had eaten in England—an unexpected connection between two very different dishes! Shoeikan also has beef stew on the menu, so why not try them both? Either way, a delicious meal at Shoeikan is a great way to cap off your trip to Maizuru.